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Nothing ruins a good cap faster than a washing machine. Here is what actually works, by material.
Spot clean first: cool water, a drop of mild detergent, and a soft brush worked along the weave rather than across it. For a sweat line on the band, let the detergent sit two minutes before brushing.
Garment-washed cotton — our dad hats and canvas buckets — survives a cold machine wash in a mesh bag, but hang it to dry over a bowl so the crown keeps its shape. Never a tumble dryer: the heat shrinks the sweatband first, and a tight band cannot be undone.
Spot clean only. The buckram in a structured front panel and the foam in a trucker both deform permanently once saturated, and no amount of reshaping brings them back. Brush, blot, air dry.
Hand wash in cool water with a wool-safe detergent. Do not wring — press the water out between two towels and dry flat, reshaping while damp. Wool relaxes as it dries, so set the shape you want early.
Store wool clean. Moths are drawn to body oils rather than the fibre itself, so a beanie put away dirty is the one that gets eaten. Cedar helps; a sealed bag helps more.
Keep it dry and keep it off its brim. Store a wide-brim hat crown-down or hanging, never resting on the brim edge, which will flatten within a week. If it does lose shape, mist it lightly and reshape by hand as it dries.
Stack caps brim-inside-brim, or hang them on a rail by the brim so nothing presses on the crown. A shelf full of caps piled flat is how you get a permanent crease across the front panel.
We sell a cedar rack and a care kit if you would rather not improvise.